The making of beer has changed dramatically over the centuries — particularly during the last one. The beverage has shifted from a rich, locally produced staple to a blanched, sanitized drink. But in recent years, the pendulum has swung back again, and flavorful brews are widely available; you just need to know how to choose them. And we don’t mean simply picking up a six-pack of snazzy-looking “microbrewed” or imported beer. (See Forbes’ refreshing Coolest Beers slide show.