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Mike Hohnen

Pratical Application of The Service Profit Chain

February 7, 2004By Mike Hohnen

A "culinary joke" that sets you back GBP 85 pp

Restaurant revue summary from The Restaurant Magazine

The Fat Duck, Malik’s, The Anchor & Hope, Rhodes Restaurant, Restaurant Martin Wishart

The Daily Telegraph’s Jan Moir got to sample the now three-star molecular gastronomy of The Fat Duck this week. Beginning with what she described as a “culinary joke,” Moir was served two squares of jelly – one orange, one beetroot coloured – which turned out to be of blood orange and golden beetroot. She found the food “oddly masculine”, appealing to “chefs and industry professionals.” She admitted it was “technically brilliant” but “challenging”. The £85 tasting menu began with a “gummy” selection of amuse dishes: green tea and lime meringue, a single oyster in a pool of horseradish cream and passion fruit jelly, a teaspoon of mustard ice cream in a pool of red cabbage, and quail jelly with pea puree. Next, a spoon of snail porridge, a slice of poached and glazed foie gras that “melt[ed] on the tongue, not in an entirely pleasant way.” Savoury ices followed, with Moir finding the experience “actively horrible”. The textures were “relentless” and “pappy” and Moir was desperate for “a proper lunch”.

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